Why go
Unlike wheat noodles, mifen is made from rice, giving it a springy, glossy texture that soaks up broth without going soggy. The classic topping is beef, plus crispy fried soybeans or peanuts, scallions and the indispensable pickled beans.
The magic is in the marinade: sliced beef simmered in star anise, cinnamon and soy, spooned hot over the noodles so the flavour melts in. Most shops also keep a jar of house-made chilli oil that is worth trying by the half-teaspoon first.
- Order it dry (ganban) with the broth on the side — that's how locals do it
- Cheap: a generous bowl costs roughly 5–10 RMB
- The best shops close after lunch — go early
- Add pickled long beans, peanuts and a spoonful of chilli to finish
Dry or soup?
Order ganban (dry) and you get seasoned noodles with toppings, plus a small bowl of hot bone broth on the side to sip between bites. This is the purist's way. If you want the broth poured over, say tang. Either way, add pickled long beans and a fried egg if the shop has them — locals rarely skip the egg.
Where to find the best bowls
The classic names in Guilin city are Shiji (石记) and Chongshan (崇善) mifen, both old brands with a loyal morning crowd. In Yangshuo, look for small family stalls near the market that serve mifen until about 1pm. Price stays around 5–10 RMB a bowl; anything more expensive usually means a tourist mark-up. Slurp loudly — it is a compliment.
Getting there
- Guilin's small noodle shops are on nearly every street; ask your hotel for the nearest lao zihao (old brand) shop
- Base
- Rice noodles (mifen)
- Classic topping
- Braised beef, peanuts, pickled long beans
- Price
- 5–10 RMB a bowl
