Why go
Lanzhou's bowl of beef noodles is a religion with rules: clear broth, hand-pulled noodles in seven thicknesses, chilli oil floated on top, eaten standing or at cramped shared tables before the morning rush ends. The city claims more noodle shops per capita than anywhere in China.
The riverside walk strings together the 1909 Zhongshan iron bridge (German-built, the first across the Yellow River), restored Ming waterwheels, and rafts still floated on inflated sheep-skins. Climb White Pagoda Hill at dusk for the river's great bend through the city.
- Zhongshan Bridge — the Yellow River's first bridge, 1909
- Beef noodles: hand-pulled, five-stage broth, before 9am
- White Pagoda Hill park for the river bend panorama
- Gateway to Zhangye, Jiayuguan and Dunhuang
Where to go
One full day: noodle breakfast, the river walk, Gansu Provincial Museum (Silk Road bronzes — home of the flying-horse of Wuwei), then hilltop sunset. Day two continues west by train.
What to eat
Beef noodles first, obviously; also hand-pulled cold noodles, lamb with yellow wine, and lily bulbs — Lanzhou's sweet specialty grown in the mountains south of the city.
Getting there
- Lanzhou is the Hexi Corridor rail hub — Zhangye ~3h, Jiayuguan ~4h, Dunhuang ~5h by rail
- Role
- Capital of Gansu province
- Zhongshan Bridge
- 1909, first bridge over the Yellow River
- Hexi Corridor
- All Dunhuang-bound trains pass through